Publication: Основні рухові дії ніг, рук та корпусу під час проходження маршрутів в скелелазінні
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Date
Authors
Топорков, О. М.
Гриньова, Т. І.
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
Вид-во УДУ імені Михайла Драгоманова
Abstract
Стаття присвячена комплексному аналізу рухових дій скелелаза під час проходження штучних трас різної складності на скеледромах та реальних скельних маршрутів природнього середовища. У статті відображені деякі моменти, що стосуються фізичної, технічної та тактичної підготовки, особливо серед скелелазів-початківців. Окремо багато уваги приділено роботі рук, ніг та корпусу скелелаза під час проходження скельних маршрутів різної складності. Також у статті розглянута деяка специфічна термінологія з такого виду спорту, як скелелазіння, яка тісно пов’язана з біомеханікою рухових дій та впливом фізичних сил на спортсмена під час проходження траси. Результати досліджень можуть сприяти вдосконаленню технічної та тактичної підготовки спортсменів та розробці більш ефективних методів тренувань для досягнення успіхів у скелелазінні.
Rock climbing is a sport that combines physical activity, coordination and constant balancing of the body in conditions close to extreme. The successful completion of a climbing route depends not only on the strength of the athlete, but also on the effective technique of using the arms, legs and body. The article is devoted to a comprehensive analysis of the climber's motor actions during the passage of artificial routes of varying difficulty on climbing walls and real rock routes in the natural environment. The article reflects some points concerning physical, technical and tactical training, especially among beginners. Much attention is paid to the key technical aspects of performing movements in sport climbing, in particular the technique of foot placement, use of the heel, rolling, and knee position. Considerable attention is paid to the role of footwork technique in reducing the load on the arms and improving the athlete's stability. Also hand techniques are analyzed. They are interceptions, grip changes, working with different types of holds, including “picks,” and the importance of relaxing the muscles of the hands while climbing. The work of the body is seen as a decisive factor in maintaining balance, centering the body weight and economical use of strength. It is emphasized that effective climbing is impossible without preliminary planning of the route, taking into account the features of the terrain and the sequence of movements. The article also discusses some specific terminology from such a sport as climbing, which is closely related to the biomechanics of motor actions and the impact of physical forces on the athlete during the route. The research results can contribute to the improvement of technical and tactical training of athletes and the development of more effective training methods for achieving success in climbing and can be useful for both coaches and athletes, as well as for beginners who are mastering the climbing technique.
Rock climbing is a sport that combines physical activity, coordination and constant balancing of the body in conditions close to extreme. The successful completion of a climbing route depends not only on the strength of the athlete, but also on the effective technique of using the arms, legs and body. The article is devoted to a comprehensive analysis of the climber's motor actions during the passage of artificial routes of varying difficulty on climbing walls and real rock routes in the natural environment. The article reflects some points concerning physical, technical and tactical training, especially among beginners. Much attention is paid to the key technical aspects of performing movements in sport climbing, in particular the technique of foot placement, use of the heel, rolling, and knee position. Considerable attention is paid to the role of footwork technique in reducing the load on the arms and improving the athlete's stability. Also hand techniques are analyzed. They are interceptions, grip changes, working with different types of holds, including “picks,” and the importance of relaxing the muscles of the hands while climbing. The work of the body is seen as a decisive factor in maintaining balance, centering the body weight and economical use of strength. It is emphasized that effective climbing is impossible without preliminary planning of the route, taking into account the features of the terrain and the sequence of movements. The article also discusses some specific terminology from such a sport as climbing, which is closely related to the biomechanics of motor actions and the impact of physical forces on the athlete during the route. The research results can contribute to the improvement of technical and tactical training of athletes and the development of more effective training methods for achieving success in climbing and can be useful for both coaches and athletes, as well as for beginners who are mastering the climbing technique.
Description
Keywords
скелелазіння, скелелаз, траса, рух, зачіп, хват, поворот, рельєф, climbing, climber, route, movement, hook, grip, turn, relief
Citation
Топорков, О. М. Основні рухові дії ніг, рук та корпусу під час проходження маршрутів в скелелазінні / О. М. Топорков, Т. І. Гриньова // Науковий часопис Українського державного університету імені Михайла Драгоманова. Серія 15 : Науково-педагогічні проблеми фізичної культури (фізична культура і спорт) : зб. наукових праць / За ред. О. В. Тимошенка. – Київ : Вид-во УДУ імені Михайла Драгоманова, 2025. – Вип. 6 (193). – С. 149-156.
